With its hidden speakeasies, hot restaurants and refurbished colonial mansions, the Colonia Juárez is buzzing. Much like it’s trendy successors—Colonia Roma and Colonia Condesa to the south—the Juarez neighborhood was up, then it was down, then it was way down. Now it’s rising again. Craft beer bars, hipster fondas and designer boutiques are scooching in

  “Do you plan on selling huaraches until the day you die?” “Probably,” says Don Raul with a laugh. “It’s very demanding, enslaving almost, but it’s very noble feeding people. When people come and they eat what you’ve prepared and they say ‘gracias’, it’s truly satisfying.” Don Raul and his sister are the owners of

Elizabeth Hillbruner, a Mexico City resident and author of the blog La Cerda y La Cebollita, launched a project to map the tlacoyo vendors in her San Rafael neighborhood. Here’s more about how she did it. What is a tlacoyo anyway? Tlacoyos are stuffed, football shaped corn-masa patties topped with salsa, cooked cactus or sautéed